‘Every Culinary Artist Ought to Learn Here’: Modest Turkish Restaurant Ranks 4th on List of London’s Top Food Spots.

Whenever curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” says a proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their small place securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.